We’re in full-on gardening mode as summer gets going. If you’ve got questions, turn to Ask an Expert, an online question-and-answer tool from Oregon State University’s Extension Service. OSU Extension faculty and Master Gardeners reply to queries within two business days, usually less. To ask a question, simply go to the OSU Extension website and type in a question and the county where you live. Here are some questions asked by other gardeners. What’s yours?
Q: I live in Willamette Valley (Albany). My backyard gets full sun and is not very large. I would like to get some natural shade on the house but I don’t want a tree that will grow into the water lines. I was hoping for a native tree but that may not be possible in my circumstances. – Linn County
A: I can give you some tree examples but I would need to know the dimensions of your yard to be really accurate.
Serviceberry trees (not shrubs which there are many) are a good example for small backyards. It is a native, bears white flowers, berries for the birds and then in the fall turns a beautiful pink/rust/orange color. It is deciduous. Look for ‘Autumn Brilliance’ for best fall color.
You could put in an apple tree. Of the fruit trees, it usually doesn’t have too many issues. A semi-dwarf that is kept pruned will provide shade and fruit. ‘Liberty’ apple produces a tasty red apple that is disease resistant. I have had one for years and have not had any disease issues with it. There are also a number of beautiful crabapple trees, ‘Kloeme’ is one that will not usually bear any fruit but produces the most beautiful flowers in the spring.
Camellias grow into trees as well as star magnolias, both producing flowers in early spring. Camellias are evergreen, and do not lose all their leaves in the winter.
The ‘Venus’ dogwood with white bracts that look like flowers is also a hardy tree. It was developed to be disease resistant. Other dogwoods can have a lot of disease issues.
Crepe myrtle trees are gorgeous and pretty hardy. They come in light and dark pink flowers and bloom mid to late summer. They need plenty of water to bloom well.
Of course, there are Japanese maples, mimosa or silk trees, and Eastern redbud trees. All are gorgeous, depending on your tastes. They all grow well in Oregon and in Albany you are in growing Zone 8.
Whatever you look at, ask if it is disease resistant. There are many trees that are developed just to grow in Oregon. All the trees I mentioned grow from 10 to 25 feet tall and some 10 to 25 feet wide. The last three I mentioned can grow taller than 25 feet.
When you plant, in order to make sure your tree does not interfere with your house or water lines, measure the length of the backyard and divide in half. Put your tree about halfway out. For example, if your backyard is 50 feet long, you would situate the tree somewhere around 20 to 25 feet from the house. It does not have to be right in the middle of the yard, maybe off to one side if you wish. I am adding a link about tree planting. You can download the pdf for free. It is long but it has page after page of trees for you to look at and to help you decide what you want. – Sheryl Casteen, OSU Extension Master Gardener
Q: My hydrangea leaves are emerging as stunted. The plant was pruned at one time, but the leaves make it look like some of the branches were just cut. Some of the stunted leaves are emerging on stems that are topped with regular size leaves. The plant is 40-plus years old and blooms nicely usually. This is first year I have ever seen this. And I have two laurel plants in a 3-year-old hedge that have similar stunted leaves. The hydrangea is in the front yard. The laurel is in the back. Neither have been fertilized this year (usually I use Alaska Fish Fertilizer). And watering has been from the rain. What is happening and how do I treat it? – Yamhill County
A: The plants exhibit classic symptoms of herbicide (weed killer) damage, clusters of small, stringy leaves at the nodes.
More specifically, they received a non-fatal dose of glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup) during the fall or winter while the gardeners were clearing the garden and landscape of weeds.
Each plant's survival (or not) will depend upon how large a dose of the herbicide it received. Only time will tell.
Thus, the only treatment (short of plant replacement) is time. Wait and see what happens next. – Jean R. Natter, OSU Extension Master Gardener Diagnostician
Q: One of our tomato plants has a very weird split that we think is caused by an insect. Any idea what might do this? – Yamhill County
A: The wound might be left from a branch breaking off and then possibly enlarged by a slug. Is there slug slime on the stem above the wounded area? I would do two things: 1) Put out slug bait to deal with them and 2) Wrap the stem with a toilet paper tube to protect the area of concern. The plant appears healthy and should quickly heal the wound. – Anna Ashby, OSU Extension Master Gardener
Q: I found a small black, smooth beetle in my shed. It has little wings but doesn't venture too far from the shed. They have been hanging out in open boxes of dried wood that we use for our fire pit. We have lived in our home for 17 years and never seen bugs like this before. I am at a loss as to what they are. If they are "new" to our area or a danger to anything on my property, etc – Washington County
A: I strongly suspect these beetles came from the firewood in the box. If so, they won't attack your house because the lumber is too dry. Boring beetles normally attack stressed trees and/or recently downed trees.
No worries about this one. It looks like Phymatodes nitidus, which is native to western North America from British Columbia to California. Here's a photo of another specimen for comparison.
According to the book Western Forest Insects, Phymatodes species attack dead or dying branches and thin-barked portions of theboles of trees. Phymatodes nitidus uses several conifers as hosts.
So, there you go. No worries.
If you have a bug-collecting kid (neighbor or family) s/he would probably love to have them. They can be humanely dispatched in a week or so in by putting them in the freezer. – Jean R. Natter, OSU Extension Master Gardener Diagnostician
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